archer earrings in gold

What is the Difference Between Gold-Filled and Gold Plated?

Gold-fill, gold-filled, 14k gold-fill…the first time I encountered these terms I was confused. “So, it’s filled with gold? WHAT exactly is filled with gold?”  The answer is - it’s kind of a misnomer,  and nothing is actually FILLED with anything. 

The terms gold-fill and gold filled refer to a specific kind of stock metal that is often used in “bridge” (meaning not costume jewelry but also not super expensive fine jewelry)  or demi-fine jewelry designs.  It’s a layer of pure gold that is mechanically bonded to a core of jeweler’s brass, usually in the form of sheet or wire.  The mechanically bonded part is what’s important here, and it’s what makes gold-fill different from (and in my opinion, superior to) gold plating.  

Mini Archers in 14k gold-fill

In the plating process, the base metal is placed in a solution containing gold ions, and an electric current is used to negatively charge the base and attract the positively-charged ions to it.  A very thin layer of gold is then built up on the surface of the brass. This means that gold can more easily wear off over time, and that the overall percentage of gold can be as little as .05%

Conversely, in gold-fill, a much thicker layer of gold is heated and mechanically pressed and rolled on to the core metal, which results in a more durable piece of jewelry that has a significantly higher percentage of carat gold. In fact, industry standard requires that gold-fill wire and sheet contain 5% gold.

I use gold-fill in many of my designs, because it’s economical and keeps its beauty over time, and I believe in using quality materials that stand up to frequent wear.

Any questions about material or processes, please feel free to contact me.

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